Make sure you have your screwdriver kit, soldering iron, and components ready. Also, remember to flash the PlanktoScope image disk on the SD card before installing the Raspberry Pi.
Laser cut all components using the .ai file ensuring all cuts are complete. The current design should have a 5mm material thickness. Start by placing laser cut base A on a flat workspace. Make sure all holes are complete, and negative space is clear.
If you are doing the laser cutting yourself, please take the time to check the calibration of the machine and its power output for the material you are using. A tight fit is needed between the different plates to avoid unwanted play between critical parts.
Place 8 standoffs (M2.5 6mm) into the designated holes on the laser-cut base A. A pair of pliers make the job more comfortable. Do not overtighten as it is possible to crack the base material.
Now is a good time to think about how the magnets will function within the microscope. The magnets in the sample stage will need to attract to the magnets on the flow cell holder. The magnets in the objective holder will need to attract the magnets on the mount. Keep this in mind as you are adding your magnets and tapping your respective M12 holders so your orientation will be correct.
You can now fix your magnets into their appropriate holes on sample stage **B**.
It is recommended to glue the magnets in place. If the magnets are too large to fit in, the holes can be widened with a handheld drill. However, they should be quite snug in place. Before you glue them in place make sure that the polarity is maintained, as they will be impossible to remove after gluing.
Don’t be alarmed by the color swap, this is the sample stage **B**. You can now fit the pegs on the driver mounts into the corresponding holes on the sample stage. They should be glued in place with superglue or epoxy. You can spin the shaft to align the driver mounts on the 2 steppers if it helps making the process easier.
You now need to tap the holes for the M12 lenses in stage and mount **M** and **D**. It is helpful for alignment to do both the objeDtive and tube lens mount together. It is important to do this as straight as possible. A drop of mineral or olive oil can help the process. Be careful to use a right-hand tap (that goes down when turning clockwise).
You can now screw the objective lens (the 25mm one) in part **D**.
## Step 7: Camera preparation
You can now unscrew the lens from the Pi camera, being careful not to disturb the sensor below.
The LED can then be wired up and put into its mount **F**. If you wire the LED yourself, remember to give enough length to reach the motor driver on the other end of the microscope. You can also add a bit of glue to fix **F** to the motor mount **E** at this time to make assembly easier, though it is not required.
The PlanktoScope **uses only bipolar stepper motors** (with 4 wires coming out, and two coils inside), so you need to identify the two wires working together for each coil. The [RepRap Wiki has great information](https://reprap.org/wiki/Stepper_wiring#.22pair.22_wires_on_4_wire_motors) on how to do this, either with a multimeter or without.
You can find more information about stepper motors and how they work in this [document](http://resources.linengineering.com/acton/attachment/3791/f-00ca/1/-/-/-/-/Stepper%20Motor%20Basics.pdf).
!!! tip
If your wires are too short, you can invert the pump and the focus wiring. However, you will have to remember to change the configuration later on.
At this point, you can insert your flashed SD card into your Raspberry Pi. [Consult the guide for flashing your SD card](https://www.planktonscope.org/replicate/prepare-your-pi) before you do this. The heat sink can also be added to the processor.
If you choose the Expert path, you still need to flash your sd card, either with the [lite version](https://downloads.raspberrypi.org/raspios_lite_armhf_latest) of Raspberry OS or with the [desktop version](https://downloads.raspberrypi.org/raspios_armhf_latest).
At this point you can use the Pi camera flex cable to connect the camera to the Pi. This is done by gently pulling up the tensioners, inserting the cable in the right orientation, then pushing the tensioners back in place to set the cable. Try not to kink or fold the flex cable too much as it is possible to damage it.
You can now connect the camera flex cable into the connector on the camera board. Once again, gently pull up the tensioners, insert the cable in the right orientation, and push the tensioners back in place to set the cable. Try not to kink or fold the flex cable too much as it is possible to damage it.
If you didn't get an already assembled ribbon cable, you need to build it yourself.
The orientation of the connector does not really matter. However, you need to make sure that both connectors are oriented in the same direction and are on the same side of the ribbon.
To assemble, slide the ribbon in its connector and close it off. You need to tighten it really hard. It's very warmly recommended to use a vice to do so.
!!! warning
Once assembled, the ribbon should NOT look like this:
Take a moment to check your wiring one last time. Also check the routing, make sure the LED wires and the pump stepper wires are in their dedicated channel.
Congratulations on a job well done. You can have some rest, get a tea and some biscuits!
You can now plug the machine in and test it. If you have choose the Expert's path, now is a good time to [finish setting up your machine](expert_setup.md).
